December 8, 2008

When it comes to picking the best porterhouse in the country, there are number of things that need to be considered. First, cooked meat and raw meat ought to be measured distinctly from another. That is, the places that serve the most scrumptious steaks don’t necessarily (but often do) get their meat from the best supplier. For instance, many would say that the top steaks comes from Chicago, whereas the best steakhouse in the country – arguably Peter Luger’s – receives most of its beef from Colorado. But within each group, there are aspects of the porterhouse that must be considered in order for it to be considered archetypal, and, well, perfect.

When it comes to the raw produce for porterhouse, size, marbling, and moisture content summarize the aspects of the steak that ought to be looked at. Size really does matter for a porterhouse because the larger the ‘face’ of the cut, the more weight it will have without having to be cut ludicrously thick, to the point of not cooking through. Little porterhouses are all too common these days: a nice steak for two, 38 ounces or so, should not be more than 2 and a quarter inches thick. Next, marbling is of the utmost significance. Without intramuscular fat, the steak will lack flavor, juiciness, and softness. The more intramuscular fat, the better; just ‘steer’ clear of big intramuscular ‘chunks’ of fat and try to avoid meat without high-quality marbling. Last, lesser moisture content is best for a tender, juicy steak whose flavor isn’t watered down by excess water or blood. Look for dry-aged meat, which will normally have a dark red to brown hue, indicating that it’s been dry aged. You may sometimes have to trade off size for suitable aging; if you must, it is worth the trade, since thick steaks are a technical challenge for the chef, whereas overly wet steaks are more or less trouble.

When it comes to a cooked porterhouse, the noticeable thing to look for is flavor. But all meat flavor being equal, there are some things that make some porterhouses better than others. First is the slice. Often the two steaks which include the porterhouse – the shell steak and the filet mignon – will be cut into slices that are too thin, robbing the meat of a lot of the mouth-feel that makes it so popular. Another feature that’s important for a good steak is temperature. A great porterhouse remains hot for the total of the meal; cold steak takes on a taste and texture similar to cardboard. Last, the crust on the outside of the meat and the freshness of the fat is a true connoisseur’s delight; a good crust provides a delightful contrast of textures within the meat, and crispy fat has an intense and luscious beefy flavor